|
Bowling Fundamentals -Michelle Mullen
Untitled Document
Bowling Fundamentals
by Michelle Mullen
NEW, 144 pages
Get other Tenpin Bowling books here
About Bowling Fundamentals
Learning to bowl has never been easier—or more fun—than with Bowling Fundamentals. Students will enjoy using this resource because they will learn by doing, spending less time reading and more time on the lanes. With simple instructions and accompanying photographs, this book makes it easy to teach students to bowl.
Bowling Fundamentals begins by teaching students about the proper grip and stance. These chapters are followed by instructions on footwork, arm swing, timing, and release. Chapters also are devoted to hitting the pocket and mastering left and right side spares. Finally, readers will get specific information on league bowling.
Each chapter addresses a specific skill, leading the student through a simple, four-step sequence:
- You Can Do It: The skill is introduced with sequential instructions and accompanying photographs.
- More to Choose and Use: Variations and extensions of the primary skill are covered.
- Take It to the Lane: Readers learn how to apply the skill in competition.
- Give It a Go: Several direct experiences—such as drills, small-sided games, and self-tests—are provided to gauge, develop, and hone the skill.
Writer Michelle Mullen won four national titles including one major as well as nine regional titles in the Professional Women’s Bowling Association and has coached bowlers of all skill levels for more than 16 years. Her personal and professional experiences allow her to understand clearly what bowlers need and how to help them achieve success.
Part of the Sports Fundamentals Series, Bowling Fundamentals teaches the basic skills and tactics to help readers get rolling in the game and enjoying every frame.
About Michelle Mullen
Michelle Mullen won four national titles including one major as well as nine regional titles in the Professional Women's Bowling Association. She has coached bowlers of all skill levels for over 16 years, is certified as a USA Bowling GOLD coach, is co-owner of Your Bowling Coach with renowned pro bowler Aleta Sill, and is cofounder of Professional Bowling Instruction, Inc.
Mullen is a former United States team USA coach and has authored many instructional columns in various publications including Bowling Magazine and Asian Bowling Digest. She is a member of Bowling Writers Association of America; National Women's Bowling Writers, Inc.; and Mid-America Bowling Writers.
Mullen lives in Dearborn, Michigan. You can contact her through her Web site at www.yourbowlingcoach.com.
Reviews of the Book
From BOWL Magazine
“It doesn't matter if your average is 100 or 200, everyone needs Bowling Fundamentals."
About Tenpin Bowling
A game of ten-pin bowling is divided into ten rounds (called “frames”). In a frame, each player is given two opportunities to knock down the skittle targets (called “pins”). The player rolls the first ball at the pins. If the first ball knocks down all ten pins, it is called a “strike” and the frame is completed. When pins are left standing after the first ball, those that are knocked down are counted and then removed. Then the player rolls a second ball and if all the remaining pins are knocked down, it is called a “spare.” There are bonuses for removing all the pins. If there is more than one player scheduled on a lane, play passes to the next player until all players have completed the frame. Then play continues with the next frame. The final or tenth frame of a game may involve three balls. See Scoring below.
The ten pins are usually automatically set by machine into four rows which form an equilateral triangle where there are four pins on a side (Pythagorean Tetractys). There are four pins in the back row, then three, then two, and finally one in the front at the center of the lane. The pins are numbered one through ten, starting with one in front, and ending with ten in the back to the right. This serves to ease communication; one could say that the 4 and 7 pins were left standing. Neighboring pins are set up 12 inches (30 cm) apart, measured from center to center. Due to the spacing of the pins and the size of the ball (about 8.6 inches (22 cm) in diameter), it is impossible for the ball to contact every pin. Therefore, a tactical shot is required, which would result in a chain reaction of pin hitting pin. In an ideal shot, for a right-hander, the ball will contact only the 1, 3, 5 and 9 pins; for a left-hander, the 1, 2, 5 and 8 pins. The term "Brooklyn" is used to describe when a bowler obtains a strike by throwing the ball into the opposite pocket, known as the Brooklyn pocket. For example, a Brooklyn would occur when a right-handed thrower obtains a strike by throwing a ball into the 1-2 pocket, and similarly a strike occurs for a left-handed bowler throwing a ball into the 1-3 pocket.
In order to count, a pin must be knocked over entirely. Even if a pin wobbles, unless it is knocked over completely, it is not scored. If the pin is wobbling as the automatic pin machine picks it up (or the machine itself knocks over the pin while it is wobbling), it is still considered standing and is not scored. Also, if a pin is moved, it does not change its designation. For example, if the 10 pin were still standing and the 7 pin slid into the 8 pin position, converting this spare would still be considered and given a 7-10 split award (if performed in sanctioned play).
There are generally two primary styles of rolling the ball down the lane. Most newer players play by rolling the ball straight, hopefully into the 1-3 pocket for right-handed bowlers or the 1-2 pocket for left-handed bowlers. More experienced bowlers usually roll a hook, which means that they make the ball start out straight and then curve towards the pocket. There are two ways to produce a hook. In the first, the player needs to let go of the ball with his thumb first, then the middle and ring finger release almost simultaneously. This gives the bowling ball its spin needed for the hook. If the player is right-handed, an ideal position of the thumb after letting go of the ball is “10 o’clock”, meaning that the thumb has gone from 12 to 10, as looking at a clock. The corresponding position for left-handed players is 2 o’clock. Of course there are innumerable variations in style and technique and the position of the thumb can vary from person to person. The second way is to hold the ball without the thumb in the thumb hole. This uses one or two fingers to produce the hook. Some bowlers will use none of their fingers. Lab research has shown that the ideal shot will enter the pocket at an angle of 6 degrees with respect to the lane boards, which means that a straight ball should be thrown from the side of the lane, near the gutter.
Bowling Fundamentals
|
